West Highland Way, Day 3
April 8. Saturday (day before Easter). Drymen to Rowardennan. 14 miles according to official estimates, a little over 15 according to my iPhone.
There is something so special about walking through beautiful landscapes and meeting beautiful people. Here’s a link if you’d like to know more about them.
I so love walking through the darkness into the light. It makes me aware that each morning is a miracle. Now I am also feeling awe at the miracle of my foot healing. I didn’t think doing this walk whole was even a possibility. I really think that chance encounter with the Galway Friends Meeting House, and then having an imagined Jesus appear and wash my feet and tell me they were healed, was the pivot point. Some kind of faith healing actually occurred. I know that’s pretty woo woo and I tend not to embrace woo woo, but I am really in awe of what has been given to me.
There were two routes for part of the first half of today’s walk, one higher and reputedly easier, and knowing the second half was considered tough (and that my foot was still iffy) I chose the higher. It was supposed to include waterfalls but given all the gorgeous waterfalls I see everyday on Orcas (well…practically every day) I didn’t expect to be impressed. But watching the slide show I felt that these moments of falling water and slabs of rock, or layerings of rocks held real magic.
I was aware yesterday of a point in the walk where I had crossed over from the low rolling hills of the lowlands into the rougher and grander and higher presence of the highlands. I was struck again after I got to the top of Loch Lomond what a varied landscape this has been in just these three days of walking. Some moments flashed me back to walking in an alpine meadow in the Sierras. I felt again in my body a quality of joy I used to find frequently backpacking.
Speaking of magic, how magical it is to arrive at these evening lodgings arranged for me by my Scottish travel agent and to have my luggage appear every afternoon. At the old inn where I am staying tonight the staff all wear kilts. The rugs are plaid. There are all sorts of stuffed animals and stags heads and such things all around.
I just watched a slide show of the photos I took today and I can’t imagine how I can make the hard choices. I want to share them ALL with you. And I want to find words so you can imagine the feelings and reflections they stirred up in me. And I want to be in bed sound asleep in one hour and I have lots of things other than blogging to do.
Let’s start with the photo that most made my heart sing. A father and daughter walking 1900 miles across Scotland together to support the organization Scottish Autism.
There is something so special about walking through beautiful landscapes and meeting beautiful people. Here’s a link if you’d like to know more about them.
Today was simply amazing. I was able to walk all day including parts that are reputed to be the toughest on this particular trail. Some stretches required scrambling up and down rocks, dodging puddles and muddy boggy areas, Watching for roots and rocks and being careful not to fall. My foot was able to carry me the distance. Oh dear I am dropping off to sleep as I write. I want you to know that I got a real nights sleep last night and felt the difference all day. I felt alive and a particular joy in being part of a place - part of something larger than myself - as I walked through it. The hard parts are kind of fun in that way - having to look so carefully to decide where to put a foot, a knee, a shoulder, an elbow. Coming into such physical and mental contact with the contours of mud and rocks and roots, dancing, wrestling, caressing my way through. It’s exhilarating - a definite high.
Seeing the moon peek in and out in the overcast sky
Watching the colors of the mountains on the far side of the lake gradually appear, and even a hint of blue in the sky.
I so love walking through the darkness into the light. It makes me aware that each morning is a miracle. Now I am also feeling awe at the miracle of my foot healing. I didn’t think doing this walk whole was even a possibility. I really think that chance encounter with the Galway Friends Meeting House, and then having an imagined Jesus appear and wash my feet and tell me they were healed, was the pivot point. Some kind of faith healing actually occurred. I know that’s pretty woo woo and I tend not to embrace woo woo, but I am really in awe of what has been given to me.
And then - if only the first day of my walk had been rain free and the sun came out, it would have been enough. If only the second day I were spared rain and given sunshine it would have been enough. To be given a third day (predicted to be overcast) and to walk along missing the sun and its brightness and then to have it come out yet again! (I am drawing inspiration from Dayenu “it would have been enough,” the Jewish Passover prayer). To experience that transition from a dim gray day to a day shining with color and light.
There were two routes for part of the first half of today’s walk, one higher and reputedly easier, and knowing the second half was considered tough (and that my foot was still iffy) I chose the higher. It was supposed to include waterfalls but given all the gorgeous waterfalls I see everyday on Orcas (well…practically every day) I didn’t expect to be impressed. But watching the slide show I felt that these moments of falling water and slabs of rock, or layerings of rocks held real magic.
I was aware yesterday of a point in the walk where I had crossed over from the low rolling hills of the lowlands into the rougher and grander and higher presence of the highlands. I was struck again after I got to the top of Loch Lomond what a varied landscape this has been in just these three days of walking. Some moments flashed me back to walking in an alpine meadow in the Sierras. I felt again in my body a quality of joy I used to find frequently backpacking.
Speaking of magic, how magical it is to arrive at these evening lodgings arranged for me by my Scottish travel agent and to have my luggage appear every afternoon. At the old inn where I am staying tonight the staff all wear kilts. The rugs are plaid. There are all sorts of stuffed animals and stags heads and such things all around.
Hey I’m falling asleep. I’ve got to go and let you go. Do you know how much I appreciate the opportunity to write these posts and anticipate your loving presence joining me on this walk? I hope so. Keep coming back. Thank you.
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